Wednesday, October 23, 2013

Between 92335 and 94781...

Bangalore -> Salem -> Chidambaram -> Kumbakonam -> Darasuram -> Tanjavur -> Srirangam -> Didigul -> Palani -> Madurai -> Kanyakumari -> Nagercoil -> Trivandrum -> Kollam -> Ernakulam -> Thrissur -> Guruvayur -> Palakkad -> Malampuzha -> Salem -> Bangalore

Yes, took so long to write. Now notes will help me to write this. Again, if this is boring; there are always photos here (500+) or a light version here (200).

Day1: (9th October)

Visiting Trivandrum was on the card to visit brother-in-law and the decision was to visit places on the way both sides. The plan was in place with a route map and staying options (here), thanks to wifey. As we were on a trip of 1000KMs+ one side, there were no fixed places to stay and we had the luxury of a major town every 40-60 KMs.

Left at 6AM and before we know, we were in a traffic snarl at Hosur Road. We need to get past Hosur to feel we are on a road trip! After the breakfast at Krishnagiri (Krishna Inn), it was the real start. We reached Chidambaram around 12:30PM and went straight to a hotel near the temple. On the way to Chidambaram, we have a road which reminded us of Green tunnel in Srinagar. We got our first taste of temple closures here. Temples close at around 12 and open only at 4PM, so waited in the hotel in hot sun and got into the temple at 4. We got the first taste of bad colors as well here. Ancient temples are painted in yellow, red, green, gold and what not. I wish the temple authorities have a minimum appreciation for the great carvings and preserve them as is. The Nataraja statue was amazing. This temple is one of the few instances where we have a statue instead of a Shivalinga in a Shiva temple. After a quick darshan, we changed our decision to stay at Chidambaram and proceeded to Kumbakonam.

It started raining the moment we left Chidambaram and it was nice to drive. The roads were narrow but good with water canal on both sides. With the low visibility, couldn’t take any photos. When we reached Kumbakonam, got to know that Navagraha Temples which (are!) famous, is not one temple but a cluster of nine temples each 10-40KMs apart. Peace was made not to go about all and just to visit Darasuram, famous for Chola architecture. Reached Darasuram at 7PM and found the temple closed. Planned to visit in the morning and rested at Hotel Siva Murugan as planned.

Total for the day, 483 KMs and one of the longest for us.

Find of the day, use Google Navigation, it works wonders. Found all the roads on self and didn’t have to ask any for directions.

Day2:

Note for the day, you won’t get aarthi and prasadam without showing money.

Started the day with the visit to Darasuram (3KMs from Kumbakonam) and what a place this is. This place is maintained by Archeological Survey of India (ASI) and there is only an open and close time, no breaks in between. Thank god, this temple is majestic and not painted in all gaudy colors. Very calm place and a photo enthusiasts delight.

Tanjavur (40KMs) was the next stop and it’s via Darasuram. Tanjavur has Brahadishwara Temple, with a huge monolithic Shivalingam. Tanjavur also has a palace, but visiting that was a disaster. Again, the small palace was being re-built like another concrete dungeon. Why can’t we keep things as they are and restore them if required?

And the next destination was Srirangam, with Ranganatha Swamy temple. Reached again at the closing time and used this time to eat Pongal, Puliyogare, Muruku/snacks sold at the temple. I didn’t like this concept of eatables sold just few feet away from god like at ISKCON, but this was at least not a money making business (10 rupee for a plate full).

Next on the list was Palani (166KMs) and thought was to complete Palani and proceed to Maduari (another 120 KMs) and stay at night to gain some more time as we knew Kanyakumari to Trivandrum will be a nightmare. Palani was done in good time and we reached by 5PM. Dindigul to Palnai was 60KMs and some people walk the distance. There was a separate pavement being built for this purpose. In Palani, there are 3 options to go up the hill; a wrench, a cable car and stairs. We went-up in a cable car and came back by walk. The plan went a little astray here, the temple was closed. We had to wait a full 2 hours and nobody knew what time the temple will open. Finished the darshan and started to Madurai. One rare time when we drove after 7-8PM and reached Madurai by 11PM. Never will I try this again.
Another 400+ KM day at 408KMs. Stayed at Hotel Annamalai, a nice hotel.

Day3:

We did gain some precious time, so started the day lazily. Madurai Meenakshi temple is one of the largest temples and it is enormous. Again the Gopuram are painted to my angst and I didn’t take any photos. These temples are a photographer’s nightmare with congested lanes with thousands of shops, ill painted temple walls.

Inside Meenakshi temple. The Goddess is shown for 2 minutes and then they close the door with cloth veil for next 20-25 minutes. I guess creating an artificial crowd is the paramount to the success of the place. Noted one more thing here, that “foreigners”/”non-Hindus” are not allowed inside the sanctum sanctorum (Garbhagudi). So much for a religion which said “Vasudaiva Kutumbhakam” (The whole world is one single family). We stopped at a place near Thirunelveli (Capris Restaurant) for lunch and met an old colleague of mine Mr. S and world seemed so small. I was meeting him after 1.5 years and not in Bangalore J.
Madurai to Kanyakumari is a delightful road with nice cloud formations, windmills and a relaxed drive. On the way, buying Halwa from Thirunelveli was a priority. Thirunelveli is famous for its Wheat Halwa. Searched for an article which I had read in Hindu, and the shop name famous for Halwa “Irrutukadai” and its selling point. The Halwa is out of the world. Lost around 2 hours here, but it was worth it. Previously gained time helped here.

In Kanyakumari it was straight to the sunset point and we were greeted by clouds. This was the pattern for next few days and strangely enough we didn’t see a “sunset” in this tour, nevertheless was able to capture a lot of light and cloud play. Hotel Sunworld was the stop for the day, after we were unable to get a room in Hotel Seaview which was our first choice. The main criterion was to watch the sun-rise next day morning from their balcony or terrace.  

Total of 253 KMs for the day.

Day4:

Sunrise. Kanyakumari is a place where Arabian Sea, Hindu Ocean and Bay of Bengal meet and one can watch Sunset and Sunrise at a place. The cloud-play before the sunrise was captured in a series of photos and after the sunrise we were off to Trivandrum.

Next was Nagercoil on the way, again a temple town. Nagercoil to Trivandrum though is a short distance by the kilometers covered, the two lane “only” road and the traffic density makes it look an eternity. Got to Trivandrum by noon and after a series of turns and mobile calls and Navigator maneuvers, reached at Tech-Park of Trivandrum and then to BIL’s place 4 KMs from it. The destination reached and after a heavy meal, it was time for a siesta.

The evening’s lazy plan was to visit Veli beach which is an eco-village kind of setting. The clouds played spoil sport once again and we the beach closes at 6:30PM. The next stop was Pothy’s mall and met a colleague of mine in that mall. Meeting someone 800+ KMs away made the world seem very small. After the mall, we proceeded to Shanmugam beach, but the tiredness took us over and we just drove back home.

Day5:

Sunday and plan was made to visit Poovar Island Resort. (Thanks Ms. P for enlightening me with this place). Enquired and found out they have a buffet spread. The Poovar Island Resort runs a boat ride and its free if you are staying there or make a certain amount of bill (2K+). Very nice place and to top it, the buffet was awesome. Spent a good 3-4 hours and returned back home. The night’s treat was Kapoor’s Kulfi from Tech Park, Trivandrum. The mallu who can talk only “malayalam” and selling “Delhi famous Kapoor Kulfi” to the cosmopolitan IT crowd made me think again; world is a small place.

Day6:

Went to the richest temple, Ananthapadmanabha Temple in Trivandrum. Again a lot of rush because of this day being Vijayadashami. Met a couple here, who are from Bangalore and stay 100 metres away from us in Bangalore. The world is just 1 sq.km in total. The lunch was at Hotel Aariya.
Visited Varkala beach in the evening, and this is a very nice place with a combination of sea and hill/(s). Back home, we went to  Shanmugam beach where Vishruta played to his heart’s content.

Day7:

Lazy day as next 2-3 days was travelling back. Did almost nothing except for washing the car myself. Night dinner at Sharma Dhaba, a rustic and nice place.

Day8:

We re-planned to reach Bangalore in 2 days instead of 3. The idea was to get Friday back, so we have a rest of three days. Started at 7AM and the destination was Athirampilly falls near Kochi. From Kochi, take a deviation to Chalakudy and then to Athirampilly. While coming back, we can directly go to Thrissur on the other side. Athirampilly is called “Niagara of India” and is a very nice place.
Few Kgs of Banana chips later at Thrissur (Thanks Ms. S) and we continued to Guruvayoor. Waited in the queue for long time and got Darshan. Again, it’s a chaos at the temple with no proper timing of opening and closing. Stayed at Guruvayur Resorts (not a real resort, but has more space than a normal hotel/lodge).

Day9:

Tried for Darshan at 6AM again, but the temple doesn’t open. Started back and the next stop was Malampuzha. The road leading to Malampuzha is not too good and 90 KMs took 2.5 hours. Enjoyed the ropeway and boat ride at Malampuzha dam for the second time. (First one a good 2.5 years back). The dam site is built with different type of gardens and well maintained.

Started back at 1:45PM and stopped at a McD for lunch in Palakkad. The waiter at McD heard us and started talking in Kannada. He had his training in JP Nagar McD at Bangalore and learnt Kannada in a short time!

A long drive back home, a traffic jam at Salem and we were home at 11:30 PM. This day was the longest ever for us with 532 KMs on the odometer.


And whats the total? 2446 KMs.  Hence the title Between 92335 and 94781...

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